We’ve hit the second stop across the globe as Fashionistas and Glamour Queens tune in to see what they’ll be filling their wardrobes with through the Autumn and Winter seasons. London decided to avoid the kerfuffle that was New York Fashion week and do its own thing, the only thing that could have stopped it was the weather…
London Fashion week was almost halted as the UK is battered by Storm Dennis. Flood warnings were signaled across a large part of the country, with winds as high as 146km/h and more than half a month’s worth of rainfall in some regions of the country, for some designers the weather fit their messaging of being climate-conscious as designers like Tommy Hilfiger dropped earth-friendly lines.
The celebration was in full swing as Designers like Victoria Beckham threw out the rule book and partied, Richard Quinn had a wedding and Burberry tried to avoid its funeral, as it tried to market its new line after huge losses in Asia in light of the Hong Kong protests and the Coronavirus.
Tommy Hilfiger
After missing seven seasons Tommy Hilfiger returns to London to show off the latest installment in the ‘see now, buy now’ TOMMYNOW line. This is the fourth collaboration with English Formula 1 Driver Lewis Hamilton to create an organic and sustainable fashion line, that is available to all genders, coinciding with the core concept of two designers; inclusivity and diversity.
The concrete catwalk was graced by people of all ethnicities and included some of the biggest names in the industry including Naomi Campbell, Winnie Harlow, Halima Aden, Luka Sabbat, Jourdan Dunn, British ‘It Girls’ Lottie Moss & Georgia May Jagger, Pixie Geldof and Aussie Jordan Barrett. The collection was made from organic cotton, recycled materials and low impact denim washes with the brands offset carbon emissions from the London show used to fund water purifiers in Cambodia.
“I’m constantly pushing these designers to find new ways of making materials in the lowest impact way,” Hamilton said when speaking with Fashionista.com.
Held in two underground enclosers aptly nicknamed “The Tanks” superstar models strutted down a smoke-filled industrial runway to the sounds of David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, and The Arctic Monkeys. The collection featured a collaboration within the collaboration, using lyrics from musician H.E.R’s ‘Hard Place’ that were sprawled across a neon long sleeve that read “My heart or you I’m gonna lose”.
Tommy Hilfiger spoke to NewsCorp about the inspiration that Hamilton has provided him to create this collection “We created streetwear back in the 90s but he (Hamilton) brought an urban chic idea to me, which was his version of streetwear, and we made it modern and relevant for today … And we took it to another level with unisex, genderless, added neons, oversized, … We’re writing a new chapter in life – it’s about sustainability, it’s about living in a genderless society where age, size, background doesn’t really matter.”
Inspired by his own wardrobe Hamilton pushed to have this line be as ethical as possible “You’ll see at the show, there’s all ages, all different ethnic backgrounds and sizes. I want it to fit everywhere.”
Burberry
On a catwalk that was caged by the highlights of the Victorian era smooshed with the steel beams of the industrial era in the Kensington Olympic, British Luxury brand Burberry showed off its Equestrian Chic collection. “London is the place where I learned to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today,” said Riccardo Tisci, the chief creative officer of Burberry, before his London fashion week.
“Now I want to share British style with the world and use this incredible heritage to build and humanise the house”
This is the 4th season that Tisci has overseen for Burberry, reinventing the brand giving it a sexy look, changing his predecessor’s romantic style. The inspiration for the collection was ‘Memories’ the places Tisci had visited, his experiences as a young designer, going back to his roots and reinventing the style he had cemented.
Only the biggest names were present on the mirrored runway including Bella Hadid, Gigi Haddid, Joan Smalls, Irina Shayk, and Kendall Jenner. The theming pushed heavily towards Stable-hand garments, dressed up as evening wear, creating equestrian-chic designs. Burberry has always been a British luxury brand, but commercially it has always profited from its presence in Asia, with 40% of revenue coming from China, making it the hardest affected by the Coronavirus.
The Fashion-house had taken a hit last year seeing a dip in sales during the ongoing Hong Kong protests, and with the outbreak of the Coronavirus 65 stores in mainland China have been closed, that’s nearly a third of all store in the country. Chief Executive Marco GobbettI acknowledged the negative effect of the outbreak on business but was confident that the creation of this new line would help combat the current economic drop.
This London Fashion week show is currently scheduled to be reprised in Shanghai at the end of April. The event will be for the Chinese press, influencers, and clients and would showcase the same items displayed in London as well as some exclusive additional looks for Chinese Burberry customers. Tisci remarked that China is” a country that has always been so supportive of me”.
Honourable Mentions
Richard Quinn
The many tangents of Richard Quinn returned to London Fashion week with his signature colours, florals and latex, and this year someone popped the question!! The strut down the catwalk was switched for a walk down the aisle. Complete with bridesmaids, groomsmen, flower girls, a wedding band and of course guests. The centerpiece was a bride in embroidered hijab, it was weird, it was wacky and it was exactly what we needed at this year’s LFW.
Emilia Wickstead
The UK based label was one of two fashion houses to include models from 50 to 60 years old, to immense praise. Age in the modeling industry has been vigorously disputed nearly as long as the industry has existed. Models inclusive of Yasmin Le Bon, and Stephanie Grainger walked the runway flaunting the ready-to-wear collection of Winter styles.
Victoria Beckham
Another rule breaker joined the runway as Victoria Beckham throws out her rule book and paves a new story in her fashion brand. Shorter length with swinging tweed skirts and velvet culottes, cut to hit barely above the knee, a departure from the mid-calf length that made her brand as big as it is today. Versatility and wearability were themes presented during Beckhams show, encapsulating the modern women’s wardrobe.
JW Anderson
The sophistication on the catwalk drew the most noteworthy crowd of London Fashion Week including The End of the F***ing World’s Naomi Ackie, Sex Education’s Ncuti Gatwa, Billy Porter , Rina Sawayama and Charlie XCX. Celebs alone are enough to gush at but JW Anderson’s collection really sparkled with show notes describing the theming as “mixed media art…taken from the familiar to the beautifully strange, blowing them up to extreme volumes” The shoulder pads were robust, the lapels were stretched, but this glitzy luxury brand ticked all the right boxes.
Street Wear
For those brave enough to hit the streets, London was lit up by the amazing models and designers who brightened even the dreariest of days. Take a look at all the London Fashion Week’s best Streetwear down below.
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