This Milan Fashion Week, the Italian capital of style and design returns to form. The newest batch of MFW runway presentations includes checkerboards and Y2K themes crossing over with high fashion.
Over the past three Milan Fashion Week seasons, typical fashion concepts have been non-existent. As a result of the ongoing Covid-19 outbreak, numerous fashion houses have gone digital or set up events with no audience. This time last year, brands like Giorgio Armani were forced to hold a digital show with no guests.
It was, however, business as usual this year.
MFW is a tour de force, the holy grail of fashion with its devoted followers, heavyweight designers and professional models arriving in the capital for the event. Despite the fact that brands including Bottega Veneta and Gucci continue to miss MFW, mainstays like Prada, Fendi, and Versace drew a significant number of international visitors this year.
The focus of the proceedings was set squarely on fashion industry sustainability, with designers constantly looking to improve, becoming increasingly open in all elements of the design, manufacture, and retail process.
The tone this year is one of rebirth. Some showing designers have wholly committed to a roaring twenties approach, full of optimism and hope. Others remain more realistic, taking a more practical approach to fashion.
Read on to discover the highlights from some of the most prestigious brands in the sector.
Fendace
Originally intended as a surprise due on the final day of MFW, reports earlier in the week broke the news: Versace and Fendi were set to present a new co-branded collection in a dual fashion show.
“It’s a first in the history of fashion,’ said Donatella. ‘Two designers having a true creative dialogue that stems from respect and friendship.”
Source: Elle
The dual collection sees the designers interpret the archives and signatures of the other, resulting in logo and print crossover. Donatella Versace is responsible for the Fendi portion, overseen by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini-Fendi. The Versace portion was overseen by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini-Fendi.
The two labels have unveiled an offering rich in maximalist motifs, characteristic of each house. Jones makes his mark on Versace by infusing his own inimitable streetwear flair into the glamorous brand, outfitting models in Versace-printed bomber jackets.
Meanwhile, Donatella introduced Versace’s sex appeal to Fendi with glittering metallics and thundering music, which included Drake, Future, and Young Thug blasting out “Way 2 Sexy.”
The intimate show, featuring two collaborative collections, wowed spectators. The FF and Versace logos are reimagined, with the brand signatures morphing into modern insignia throughout both collections.
Gigi Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, Lila Grace Moss, and Paloma Elsesser walked in the presentation which took place on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Longtime supermodels Kate Moss, Amber Valletta and Naomi Campbell joined them on the runway.
Check out the full runway show:
Jil Sander
This season, the creative director couple Lucie and Luke Meie explore conflict, contrasting femininity with masculinity, fragility with strength. This concept creates styles that strike a balance between the two. The resulting collection is full of statement tailoring, providing an up-to-date take on modern-day office attire.
Jil Sander has long been associated with minimalism and the transformation of the classic work uniform. As society begins to consider a move from this work-from-home period to the workplace, weighty expectations were met by the SS22 offering.
This MFW runway marks Jil Sanders’ comeback to physical presentations, made up of 44 looks, each one worthy of consideration, set in a mauve-coloured space.
The designers contrast the fluidity of exquisite silk with a fur-like knit set in pink, to play with textures. The hues are an array of pastel tones, ranging from soft pinks to mild yellows and mint greens. The dresses, featuring candy stripes and gentle draping are definitely some of the most wearable items in the multifaceted collection.
Prada
On September 24, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons organised a duo presentation to unveil Prada‘s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. The event included a runway show at the Prada Foundation in Milan and a replica in Shanghai, displayed on the event’s monitors. Simon shares in the show notes, “It’s no longer about a small world — in fashion, or elsewhere,”
He continues,
“Doing these shows simultaneously demonstrates a new possibility… Community is a vital idea: drawing together people who share ideologies, values, and beliefs.”
The simultaneous unveiling presents designs that draw inspiration from the concept of seduction. Designs feature satin fabric and scarlet lace.
“We thought of words like elegant — but this feels so old-fashioned. Really, it’s about a language of seduction that always leads back to the body,”
Prada adds.
“Using these ideas, these references to historical pieces, the collection is an investigation of what they mean today.”
Maison Margiela
MM6 Maison Margiela debuted its new SS22 collection at La Belle Aurore bar at this season’s Milan Fashion Week.
The line’s major feature was a red and green rendition of a mylar chessboard design printed over denim jackets and wool tailoring. The graphic print also appears on a jacket – last season’s gabardine coat. A leather-look top is constructed in the shape of the game board.
Bizarre twists such as ruffle collars and yellow dishwashing-type can be found throughout the collection. The designers draw inspiration from surrealist female painters such as Claude Cahun and Dorothea Tanning throughout. Additional tributes to the season’s artistic influences are a faux fur wheeled baggage bag and a recreation of MM6’s distinctive Japanese bag.
Margiela also extends its relationship with Eastpak for this new season, delivering a selection of bags that are shown alongside the collection. The show notes state,
“It all amounts to a heightened vision of the familiar, a displacement of the quotidian beyond the threshold of the norm. It’s a celebration of how humble pleasures like an aperitivo among friends or a leather jacket’s snug fit can become supernomal events well worth commemorating.”
Source: Fashion United
FIB’s Favourite Trend – Highlighter Hues
Bright, neon colours are on the way. This season, a slew of designers showcased designs that could illuminate the dark.
Evening gowns at Giorgio Armani are on display in fuchsia pink hues and the tailoring at MSGM and Versace also receives a high-vis treatment.
Prada offers up tangerine and yellow midi-dresses with a corset-like fit. The designs feature a square neckline and cinched waist to give the gowns compression; emphasising the body with subtly sensuous pieces.
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