Fendi just showcased their Fall 2022 couture in Paris at the Palais Brongniart in Bourse. It was unveiled by Kim Jones, the Artistic Director for Couture and Womenswear. It is themed around fragments of different cities.
The Fendi collection is a conversation between Kyoto, Paris, and Rome. Jones says: “This season, I wanted to step away from Rome, or at least I wanted to place Rome in a global context.”
There are parallels between East and West and Masculine and Feminine. Kyoto is evoked through floral motifs that evoke the Kata Yuzen hand-painting technique. LVMH website refers to it as French “Japonism,” set off by an Italian take. “We went to see a number of the suppliers we’ve always worked with on special projects, and I bought all these fragments of 17th-century kimonos.” Says Jones.
His goal was lightness. “I wanted lightness in the clothes this season, also in terms of how the embroideries were done.”
Retrospective
Jones also explains that Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi are at the genesis of this new collection. He said that he saw Delfina wear a blouse from the 1986 Fendi Lagerfeld collection. He says, “I took it off her back and put it on the research rail.”
This collection is a callback to the spring 2000 Fendi collection designed by Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld held Jones’ position for 54 years. It cannot be coincidental that we now re-see this spring 2000 collection. This era is becoming relevant to a younger audience that didn’t get to experience it back then. Jones is also celebrating the Baguette bag’s 25th anniversary. It was put in the spotlight by Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City. Now the fashion cycle has created a new interest in the It bag for this new generation. It is perfect timing for Jones to work. “Kim Jones bridges the past, present, and future of the Roman couture Maison.”
When asked, Jones said: “I don’t think I’m the new Karl, but I have the same birth chart. I like to work hard”.
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