Milan Fashion Week showcased an impressive lineup of Italian designers this Spring/Summer 23-24 season.
Here are some of our favourite collections from Milan SS24.
Prada
Opening the second day of Milan fashion week, Prada shocked audiences as clear slime oozed from the ceiling. The main motif for this season is utilitarian. The first outfit features a classic Prada tailoring – a grey oversized blazer tucked into pleated shorts, finalised with a cinching belt and a glittering sheer shoulder scarf.
Sheer fabrics where consistently used throughout the show with lighter pastel looks gracefully floating down the runway. Some of these sheer pieces were complete with added crystals complimenting the dainty movement of the fabric.
Metallic fringes and metal hardware also shimmered throughout the show, the movement of the pieces reflecting boldly to the audience.
Contrasting the graceful sheer pieces were sturdy workwear jackets that honoured the utilitarian uniform motif. Models showcased leather collars with oversized outerwear paired with sophisticated dresses to highlight Prada’s balance between bold and delicate.
Gucci
Gucci became one of the most anticipated shows for this season due to Sabato De Sarno’s debut as the brand’s new creative director.
And in essence, his first collection, “Gucci Angora”, returns to the house’s roots with a modern beat.
The collection opened with a clean and simple everyday look of a long tailored blazer paired with matching shorts and a basic white top. The look was complete with the iconic interlocked “GG” belt, a chunky gold chain necklace, and the bold “Jackie Bag” in red.
The silhouettes of the pieces were minimal and comfortable with exquisite tailoring were the main theme. There are variations of blazers in colours ranging from black to pink to lime green. Billowing blouses come together with form fitting skirts and short shorts.
In honouring the brands history, its famous green and red tones are showcased in tennis-inspired uniforms and sneakers.
Adding a sparkle to the collection, a series of bedazzled pieces such as minidresses and tops glimmered down the runway emphasising the movement of the model.
In the notes of the show De Sarno says, “it’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words—words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words.”
Dolce & Gabbana
Milan is the perfect location for the dark, sultry, and seductive Dolce & Gabbana. Its SS24 collection celebrates its 40th anniversary, taking inspiration from femme fatales.
“Woman,” the name of the show, aims to embrace womanhood and encapsulate the essence of femininity. In doing this, the show puts lingerie-look silhouettes on the runway, delving into their archives.
The main staples are satin corsets, tulle, garter belts, and triangle bras. Although the pieces included everyday where such as blazers, dresses and coats, the female body was always highlighted through the peeking of lingerie and the incorporation of these seductive staples within outfits.
with a simple colour palette of black, white, and nudes, D&G perfectly executes this balance of erotic femininity through sheer tops that show off beautifully crafted lingerie and garter belts or the use of corsets as outerwear instead of their usual place being under clothing.
The collection is timeless and playful, sexy and bold, and the perfect way for D&G to mark 40 years in the fashion industry.
Tom Ford
This season in Milan, Tom Form welcomes Peter Hawkings as its new creative director. His first collection channels the brand’s heritage, and Hawkings takes to the 70’s for inspiration. Sophisticated, sexy and chic, the pieces feature a harmonious ensemble of fabrics such silk, leather, cotton, wool, and velvet.
The construction of the tailoring is one of the highlights of the show. From blazers to trench coats to jackets, the fit compliments the body perfectly. Overall, it accentuates the shoulders and waist in a chic and glamorous manner.
Petite shorts also make an appearance in Tom Ford’s show. The shorts came in a variety of colours and textures, matching belts tying the looks together.
Skin-tight maxi dresses graced the runway, the thin material elegantly showing off the curves and lines of the body with varying neck lines and fabrics.
For the menswear, monochrome outfits of boxy blazers and opened blouses were the main event. Their looks were finalised with oversized sunglasses and matching trousers.
“In Peter Hawkings the brand has found the perfect Creative Director,” Ford said in a statement in April.
“Since the creation of Tom Ford menswear, Peter has been instrumental in the success of the brand. He is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience, and his appointment gives me confidence that my commitment to creating fashion products with the highest level of design and quality will continue.”
Diesel
For Diesel’s Spring/Summer collection, it brings bold and hardcore techno rave to Milan. And not even the heavy downpour of rain could stop them.
The collection is a deeper level of technical sophistication with denim being a main staple of Diesel receiving new and innovative methods of distressing to unveil unique shapes and silhouettes.
The distressing and manipulation of fabrics sees pieces of jerseys sewn onto a nylon base; which is then burnt so that the top layer comes off during the washing process.
“The effect is that of a peeling, like that of the neckline of a camisole mini-dress. I like the fact that these pieces will never be the same – when you create garments in this way, you never know what will come out, everyone is different, and the wearer can continue to wear them,” says artistic director Glenn Martens.
Martens’ unique view of garments is demonstrated further with the utility suits that feature zips that when unzipped, can be worn as separate pieces.
Garments that look like they’re practically falling apart as the model walks. Discoloured pieces that look muddled and dirty. Sheer fabrics to cheekily reveal skin.
The looks are sleazy and artistically absurd yet crafted with utmost detail setting in stone the unforgettable aesthetic of Diesel.
“This is a collection about celebrating together, having fun, living life to the fullest,” says Martens.
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