A new ‘hybrid’ haute couture for Dior Homme by Creative Director Kris Van Assche was showcased with dramatic scenography at the Paris Fashion Week.
Kris Van Assche spoke enthusiastically about the concept of the hybrid, which is integral to our current mode of living.
“The idea of ‘the hybrid’ is intrinsic to the collection. Today, people don’t just fit into one box, they fit into many and all at once. There might be an idea of the New Wave or Skate that somebody has grown up with, but it is what those things and people have grown into now that matters. Traces of memory and tradition can still exist, but these happen without nostalgia: this is the hybridisation of now.”
Christian Dior’s polished aesthetics had a never-before-seen macho look, owing to the hybrid collection by Van Assche.
Those who came for Van Assche’s signature designs of ‘super-skinny silhouette’ were treated to a completely new set of designs. Van Assche’s signature skinny silhouette was not completely laid to rest; it still had its presence on the catwalk. Extra-large coats were paired with slim trousers. At other times, trousers were baggy or cuffed. Van Assche perfectly complimented his signature slim silhouette with his new voluminous designs. He also combined patterns, with miniature patterns on outerwear and enormous patterns underneath.
Van Assche’s motif for his new haute couture is the red-and-black tartan look, embellished with fraying embroidered threads. The red-and-black tartan gives a new distinctive appearance to Dior’s usual suaveness. The collection is a hybrid of sports and streetwear, paired with ’80s new-wave and ’90s skateboard culture. The collection has a DIY look.
“I didn’t want the collection to be at all precious or uptight.”
As an icon of tailoring, Dior Homme showcased beautifully-crafted couture that was sharp and clean.
The runway look was evocative, telling a story of a child from the skateboarding culture of the ’90s who has become a man of the white-collar world, yet still has the traces of the skateboarding child he once was. This could be seen through the classic Dior suits that were complimented with blue plaid.
Some of the most memorable highlights on the runway were the bread-and-butter Dior suits, which were given a retro makeover with the addition of old-fashioned bow tie. Another highlight was the pairing of the smoky leather jacket with scarves and ski hats. Van Assche brought back the camel duffle coats.
The collection of accessories by Van Assche had the essence of Dior and elements of street culture.
A number of high-profile guests were present, including Christian Slater, Noomi
Rapace, A$AP Rocky, Rami Malek and a range of other celebrities.
Dior Homme’s scenography had as much limelight as its haute couture, especially with its striking large crystal chandelier as a centrepiece. The Dior models strutted on skate ramps that were built on traditional Versailles parquet floor as red neon lights sparkled upon them. The red-and-black tartan look of the outfits was translated onto the scenography.
The new Dior Homme collection is comfortable, masculine, trendy and warm.