German photographer Ellen von Unwerth is best known for her spirited and sensual images of models and musicians. Now, she’s setting her sights on an unlikely new target: Australian shopping centres.
Born in Germany in 1954, Ellen von Unwerth started her life in foster homes across Bavaria. Her fortunes changed at 20 years old when she was scouted by a model agent. But, her star really began to soar once she moved behind the camera, forging an iconic career in the arts.
Her photographic career launched in 1989 with a Guess campaign featuring Claudia Schiffer. This collaboration also helped to kickstart Schiffer’s career, culminating in her status as one of the ‘90s most successful supermodels. Von Unwerth fast became one of the most prominent photographers working in the industry, known for her empowering portrayal of female subjects.
In fact, when it came to supermodels, von Unwerth was quite the star-maker. With her own experience working in the modelling industry, she was able to meaningfully connect with her subjects. Her work is known for its celebration of femininity, autonomy and eroticism.
“I’ve always loved to portray women who are strong, who are playful, who are self-assured, and who really own their sexuality, which is why I love working with Claudia, and Naomi, and all those girls.”
Source: Opera Gallery
Over her decades in the industry, von Unwerth has photographed the likes of Britney Spears, Naomi Campbell and Adriana Lima. Additionally, she has shot for many luxury labels including Dior, John Galliano, and Ralph Lauren.
“So Kinky”
Perhaps surprisingly for those familiar with von Unwerth’s illustrious career, the photographer’s latest project is working with Australian lingerie brand Honey Birdette.
Company founder Eloise Monaghan tapped the iconic artist to work on the label’s Halloween photoshoot. Due to the COVID-19 lockdown in Sydney, the campaign was shot in Paris.
“We weren’t going to do a Halloween shoot at first. But then, over a glass of champagne, we went from a concept involving two girls to a cast of 40 including performers from the Crazy Horse and Lido cabarets.
“We had Parisian drag queens, people in horseheads, a giant rabbit. And it was all organised in a few days. We were blessed to be surrounded by some very tenacious people, and Ellen was absolutely amazing to work with.”
The resulting images have surely injected some editorial glamour into Australian shopping malls, and von Unwerth’s eye for the sensual is clear to see. Models cavort in Honey Birdette’s signature risqué lingerie, adorned in masks and Playboy bunny ears.
Check out some of the shots from the campaign below:
Credit: Honey Birdette
If you’re over 18, you can watch the accompanying video here.
“Performative Feminism”
While it may seem that Ellen von Unwerth is a great addition to a brand that seemingly preaches female empowerment, it’s not all glamour behind the scenes. Staff at the lingerie giant spoke to the press earlier this year about allegedly sexist and exploitative working conditions.
Ex-employees have claimed that the company urgently needs to update its policies on “consent, uniform standards and safety.” One former assistant stated that the brand “needs to be held accountable for exploiting workers, performative feminism, and continuing to perpetuate sexism.”
Employees at the chain spoke out about the strict guidelines staff are required to follow, including red lipstick and high heels at all times, no jersey stretch fabrics, and “screen siren” hair. The company has also previously come under fire for its raunchy campaigns being in open view in retail spaces.
However, these disappointing practices don’t seem to have affected the brand too much. After being sold to Playboy earlier this year, the company is set to make $97 million in revenue and $37 million in earnings for the 2021 financial period.
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