In a fiesta-inspired resort show in Spain, Dior Cruise 2023 pays tribute to Dior’s relationship with Spain. It honours the excellence of Andalusian craftsmanship and culture, shining a light on multifaceted femininity.
Dior has ties with Spain dating decades back to the 1950’s. Despite his French heritage, Monsieur Dior draws most of his inspiration from his travels to Andalusia on the Spanish peninsula. This influence is responsible for some of his most infamous early silhouettes; creating a bond between the fashion house and the country that would outlive Christian Dior himself.
Where Culture Meets
In 1956, Dior designed his “Bal a Seville” gown. It is a simplistic, yet voluminous design, initiating a relationship between the house and Spain. The gown, acts as a place where French maison and Andalusian culture meet.
Creative director for the label, Maria Grazia Chiuri, inspired by Dior’s rich history and integration of Spanish culture into his designs, decided to design a fiesta-themed collection and runway set for the Dior Cruise 2023 show that was debuted live from Plaza de España in Seville, Spain on June 16.
For the collection, Chiuri not only takes inspiration from Dior’s history, but also looked to the history of Seville, specifically the plastic artist Maria Angeles Vila Tortosa, who described Chiuri’s vision as a “powerful cocktail” of art, music, fashion and history, as per Marie Claire.
Diverse Depictions of Women
Women play a significant role in the creation of this collection. Specifically, Chiuri draws on diverse depictions of women of the Spanish culture; praising women in an age of multifaceted femininity.
Chiuri’s moodboard for the collection is made up of identity-rich, Spanish females over the decades. According to Vogue, this includes the resplendent Catholic image of the La Madonna della Macarena, the Duchess of Alba in a black lace Mantilla veil, and the heroines of Almodóvar’s films.
As for fashion, Chiuri ensures her designs are suitable for the theme whilst also maintaining the high standards that Dior is recognised for worldwide.
Cross-Over Styling
Vogue describes the collection as a dialogue between an equestrian and flamenco wardrobe. With a fascination of traditional Spanish attire, specifically, the dress, Chiuri’s vision for the collection blends the wardrobes. It combines an exuberant dressage competitor with a fiery flamenco dancer.
Chiuri’s main source of inspiration came from then flamenco pioneer, Carmen Amaya, known for challenging stereotypes and norms of her era by performing in men’s clothing. Drawing from her fashion, the collection featured slim-fit Andalusian pants, traditionally worn by males, and was paired with cropped jackets to give a feminine aesthetic, along with riding boots and chaparreras for the equestrian look.
The looks didn’t stop there though. Chiuri incorporated the flamenco style into the mix, embodied through the colourful gowns of scarlet, black and gold, and taffeta, the embroiled shawls and capes, as well as the fans on belts paired with stylish lace and organza skirts.
“Dior Cruise 2023 blends the masculine and the feminine; infusing garments with flamenco and matador-esque touches.”
Harpers Bazaar
When it comes to art, Chiuri wanted to pay tribute to the craftsmanship of the Andalusian people, commissioning local craftsmen and artisans to work on creating a collection in unison that built a “dialogue between countries”.
A Collaborative Effort
Leading up to the presentation, Chiuri spent a vast amount of time in Spain. There, he collaborated with embroiderers, hat-makers, and leather craftsman. From headwear to embroidered shawls, Chiuri sourced a myriad of Spanish artisans including Fernandez Y Roche and Maria Jose Sanchez Espinar.
The feature of the collection, however, is Dior’s iconic saddle bag. This new rework takes the classic design and incorporates leather embroidery. Technique masters, Spanish craftsmen Javier Menacho Guisado, transform the bag into a staple that showcases the best of French and Spanish artistry.
“I want to continue to work with the atelier for our haute couture collections,” says Chiuri on working with the Spanish artisans.
Check out the full presentation below:
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