When it comes to real estate, location, location, location is the catchcry. When it comes to Fashion shows, Jacquemus is the real estate agent of fashion shows.
Simon Porte Jacquemus is known for showing his eponymous label’s collections in exotic locations. Some of these backdrops include lavender fields, wheat fields or a beach in Hawaii. This time, the show takes place in the astonishingly natural beauty: Camargue.
Camargue is in the very south of France and his show is set in a salt mine. It is the premier breeding location for flamingos and the white horses of the area are caught and ridden by brandiers to keep the native bulls in check. The salt flats were chosen by Jacquemus to show the Fall 2022 collection; an ethereal, otherworldly and minimal scene to emphasise his pieces.
Movement and Contrast
The palette is neutral, featuring black, white and cream colours which do not heavily contrast the background. Instead, the movement of walking is the focus. Jacquemus calls his collection “Le Papier”, reflecting Jacquemus’ vision.
I started working on the collection with the obsession to restart from nothing, like a white page.
With an all-star audience including Victoria Beckham, their famous butts were sitting upon carved salt benches. When Beckham accepted his invitation to the show, Jacquemus screamed. After the show he tells her “We’ll put one [Spice Girl t-shirt] in the next collection for you”. She goes on to describe the show like “being in a weird dream. It’s beautiful.”
Jacquemus is clearly tiring of the bright pinks which define his recent collections, and wanted to return to a neutral palette. Having become recently engaged, there were bridal themes with long veils, and strings of flowers dangling from ears and tulle.
When it comes to location though, nothing is more inspirational than watching the way the wind toys with the long veils of the collection, as models saunter over the salt flats.
The view from above shows the model’s shadows casting long figures on the white salt background. To paraphrase Victoria Beckham, it transports you to another place, illusory and apocalyptic. This, given the year, was entirely appropriate. We all need a clean slate.
We can’t wait to see where Jacquemus chooses for his next show. Perhaps a bull-fighting themed show in the Arles amphitheatre? Jacquemus, if you’re looking for someone to send an invitation to, pick us!
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