Ralph Lauren’s special new capsule collection is created in collaboration with Morehouse and Spelman Colleges. The Collection highlights the significance of African-American’s contribution to the classic American aesthetic RL is known for, by way of sartorial traditions exhibited at HBCU’s.
Ralph Lauren: “A Portrait of The American Dream”
Ralph Lauren, both the brand and man, has announced a new collection in collaboration with HBCU’s Morehouse and Spelman. This new capsule collection drops today – March 29th, 2022. The unveiling comes with a film on the collection and the inspiration behind it. It premieres on March 28th with the film, “A Portrait of The American Dream”.
Representation Matters
The significance of this collection’s base both within timeless tailoring and styling found at HBCU’s – and within the Black community itself – is powerful.
RL is known for its “All-American” touch in the world of high fashion. This unique approach in the world of French, Italian and English fashion houses, is always one of the brand’s biggest selling points.
The Domino Effect
There is necessary introspection, to take a step back and acknowledge a glaring absence of black inspiration. This is true within his own brand, it’s what is truly notable about this collection. Ralph Lauren explains it perfectly by saying,
“When I was approached with the idea of a collection inspired by the heritage and traditions of the timeless dressing of historically black colleges and universities, it became clear that part of our design sensibility has been missing.”
We can only hope that this sets up a domino effect for other brands to follow suit. In this case, introspection leads to representation. And representation matters.
Examining HBCU’s Impact on Conscious Fashion
Before we proceed, it’s probably a good time to explain that HBCU stands for historically black colleges and universities. HBCU’s are a beloved American tradition born out of a need for black students to gain access to institutions of higher education.
Creative Expression
And fashion, like other sensibilities, can be inspired, elevated, and transformed by the happenings of the world around it. Creative expression, through all manners of dressing, styling and tailoring, sits at a place in our minds that is often cherished and protected. The way you dress and present yourself is uniquely you. And most people are averse to that expression being hindered or limited by others.
What I mean to say, is that the absence of the black collective, in relation to high fashion and its influence on the world around it, is most definitely a blight on its credibility. And RL took note of this absence and decided to do something about it. That is commendable.
Self-Determination and Black Experiences
“A Portrait of the American Dream” sees the Ralph Lauren creative team and brand ambassadors explain that, “The significance of the black aesthetic at hbcu’s from the 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s has a lot to do with self-determination. Which is one of the main reasons that so many of us choose to attend hbcu’s and to educate our children at hbcu’s.”
There is a sort of reverence that is overdue in relation to the recognition that is needed from highly impactful brands like RL.
An Authentic Endeavour
Thankfully this collaboration is not just for show. It’s not some painfully transparent ploy at filling the “diversity quota” for optics alone. The collection is designed by a team of all-black creatives.
The models used for the collection are mostly students from the Moorhouse and Spellman campuses. Even in the trailer, all the imagery we see is of the black creators, models and inspirations for the film and collection. RL’s voice can be heard in the background, but he himself isn’t the main focus. There were efforts put forth from top to bottom for this endeavour to be authentic. And it shows.
This was done on purpose and adds to the historic nature of this capsule collection. A statement released from RL describes it as, “a collection and campaign with an all-Black cast including its photographer[Nadine Ijewere], director, cinematographer and talent – predominantly sourced from students, faculty and alumni at both institutions.”
Spirit of Self-Determination
It seems that the spirit of self-determination that so inspired the collection itself, has transferred over the RL himself and the RL brand as a consequence. These are the kinds of positive consequences we should reach for and advocate for. There are so many places to go with fashion and so many stories that we have yet to tell. Even the way the collection has been curated already shows the importance of seeking out opportunities to promote representation in all fields and industries.
Ralph Lauren’s creative team and brand ambassador further explain that,
“One of the things I’d like to say about the significance of Ralph Lauren seeing us and seeing what our institutions produce. Recognizing that for hundreds of years for, certainly decades, there was an identity placed at majority ivy schools that people didn’t realize were happening at other places.”
What To Expect From This Special Collaboration
Ralph Lauren states in A Portrait of the American Dream, “This special collaboration with the students the faculty and alumni of Morehouse and Spelman colleges, two esteemed institutions attended by our own employees, extends the authenticity of our brand heritage. Writing untold chapters in our storytelling.
He goes on to explain,
“Our portrait of American style and our vision of the American dream would be incomplete without black experiences like these“
The Designs
The collection celebrates HBCU’s contribution to American style drawing from vintage campus wear from the 1920s-1950s. Throughout the collection school logos, school colours and even school yearbook photos are used as design aesthetics.
Through the two institutions, Morehouse and Spelman, designers compiled a collection of classic silhouettes like circle skirts, three-piece suits and a whole line of cable-knit cardigans. It also features crisp blazers inspired by the blazers Morehouse students receive when they first enrol.
Overall the collection has tailored suits, outerwear, dresses, footwear and accessories. Beyond that, there are stand out pieces, like a white patchwork dress. It is a wrap style dress that draws its inspiration from the Spelman’s induction ceremony. There are also cool sportswear-style pieces, with the number 67 on them. This number commemorates the year of Morehouse’s founding, 1867. It is also the year of RL’s founding 1967. The garments come in at around $20-$2,500 USD, so they can be accessible to a range of budgets.
American Legacy
RL takes a trip down memory lane with this partnership, based on a legacy of American collegiate style that expands the American narrative.
This collection is the first of its kind, conceptualized, curated and designed by RL employees. Many of which, are actually alumni of Morehouse and Spelman.
Beyond the capsule collection, will continue building on their broader commitment to support HBCU students.
In December 2021 Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation pledged $2 million to grant scholarships to students at Morehouse College, Spelman College, and 10 other HBCUs through the United Negro College Fund.
They will also continue developing internships, recruitment opportunities, as well as mentorship programs for Black students at HBCU’s.
Subscribe to FIB’s Weekly Alchemy Report for your weekly dose of music, fashion and pop culture news!
