Designers both renowned and emerging have come together for September’s London Fashion Week that hit the city from the 15th – 19th of September.
In celebrating these UK designers, we have brought to you some highlights from the stunning new collections presented this Spring/Summer season.
Burberry
Designer Daniel Lee showcased his highly anticipated Burberry collection for his second coed runway presentation.
The show started with an edgy, dark reinvention of Burberry’s iconic trench coat. Secured with a thick belt the outerwear has slightly slimmer cut with a smart yet relaxed silhouette that includes the classic tan and white nova check print.
As a Burberry staple, more styles of trench coats graced with runway. Some sleeveless, some leather but all adhering to that quintessential classy Burberry trench look.
Splashes of colour also entered the runway with bright blue and red pieces. Lee brought out the playful and fun side of his direction with floral and fruit centred prints such as blue strawberries and loud knitted floral covered dresses.
Lee’s sophomore presentation was bold and experimental, paying homage to Burberry classics and putting his own spin with a maximal feel.
Simone Rocha
Irish designer Simone Rocha’s has always had romance at the core of her collections and her SS24 collection titled ‘The Dress Rehearsal’ has done it again with a sweet yet daring, rose-filled show.
The collection is a declaration of overwhelming love, romance, and affection seen through theatrical and coquettish themes.
Roses and flowers were a main staple in the pieces, embellished with different fabrics and textures throughout each garment. Her baby pink and black nylon pieces featured twists to resemble roses while the models held flowers by their side.
Rocha also showcased stunning translucent pieces with real fresh flowers imbedded into the fabric for a feminine flare.
Exaggerated bows were also a main motif to her pieces. Like the ruffled roses, the bows are tied to formal blouses and dresses. They also feature on bags with pearl embellishments.
The show also allowed Rocha to debut her first collaboration with Crocs on the runway. Following on theme with pearls and dazzling rhinestones, the collaboration includes the classic Croc shape with jumbo pearl jibbitz as well as a sneaker-clog hybrid.
JW Anderson
For JW Anderson’s SS24 collection, we return to his whimsical and fun direction of experimental shapes and fits.
This collection draws inspiration from what Anderson sees on the streets. Pushed to find “the strangeness in the mundane,” he says.
He opens with animated proportions blurring the lines between sculpture, art, and fashion with a hoodie and pants combo sculpted out of plasticine.
As the models trudged down the runway in their plasticine garments, the pieces held their shape, portraying fabric in motion with cleverly moulded folds and creases.
The fun doesn’t stop there. Noting fashion trends worn by young people, Anderson turns the popular fit of cargo pants and puffs them up, creating a whole new silhouette. Bomber jackets bursting with feathers also receive some swelling, making it for an eye catching moment for the audience.
Pops of colour and clashing colour combination are also present, adding to the childlike and whimsical feel of the collection.
Anderson’s unique and wacky designs will always be a sight and his SS24 collection certainly did not dissapoint.
Molly Goddard
This season, Molly Goddard takes inspiration from vintage underwear, what lies beneath, and the inside out of garments.
Corsetry, boning, internal zips, strapping and crinolines are the main event of the garments.
In an article on The Industry.Fashion Goddard says she had been inspired by the National Theatre costume hire department to create the collection, in particular the underskirts and underwear along with Victorian Christening robes and Georgian underwear.
She further tells Harper’s Bazaar, “there are always so many points of reference and inspiration for each collection, but it was actually maybe more slightly more defined this time.
“I was really focused on and quite obsessive about underwear and bedding, and the inside out of garments.”
Her inspirations and influences for the collection shines clearly; through a series of long, voluminous skirts and transparent fabrics that allow for the undergarments to be visible.
The colour palette had a wide range with bright, almost neon tulle dresses to dark and muted earth tones.
The neutral palette of her collection is showcased in the casual pieces. Vintage checkered skirts paired with cozy knitted cardigans completed this season’s looks.
Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn brings an air of class and sophistication. This season, he finds beauty in sadness by dedicating his SS24 show to his late father.
It is one of his most beautiful collections yet. The craftsmanship is literally astounding. The show opened with a performance by five ballet dancers mirroring the ethereal vibe of his garments.
The evening wear ensembles are perfectly fit for a ball. Some of the most standout examples are full-skirt dresses glittering with dazzling embroidery. We see bright bursts of floral patterns, and sparkling sequins with intricate beading.
At the end of the show, Quinn burst into tears, embracing his mother.
“In times of great sadness and loss comes a sense of reflection and calm,” read the show notes, accompanied by a photo of Patrick Quinn, who died in June.
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