This year’s Milan Fashion Week has finally come to an end – and the organisers really pushed the boat out this time.
Milan Fashion Week FW22 is a whirlwind of new ideas. Design favourite Blumarine throws out Y2K with an emo undertow. Prada nails it (as is customary), from style to talent. This season’s favourite is a simple ribbed tank top, courtesy of Hunter Schafer, Kaia Gerber and Kendall Jenner. Moschino communicates a lyrical life ethos in pastels and primaries.
And in the midst of demonstrations about his show, Giorgio Armani speaks out on social issues from the safety of the runway.
Read on to discover our recap of events at MFW…
Giorgio Armani
To honour the people of Ukraine, Georgio Armani presented his RTW collection in silence. The only sound was of cameras clicking and models walking the runway of his Milan HQ basement (where the designer also lives).
He states on Instagram,
“My decision to not play music in the show was made as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine.”
The season’s collection comprises rich and textural velvets, silks, and outerwear which floats down the catwalk in ethical faux-furs and a variety of other opulent fabrications.
Armani’s men’s jackets were short and snug, with the attitude of a cardigan. That or fleece shirt-jackets with glossy utility pockets. Armani takes a more subtle route overall, in a Milan season marked by larger-than-life construction and power dressing.
The womenswear borders on slouchy – featuring metallic brocades and velvets, or a combination of the two. Models wear the looks with small shoulders and waists.
Check out the full presentation below:
Fendi
Kim Jones is warming up to Fendi. Since Donatella Versace x Jones collaborated to bring us “Fendace”, we’ve been keenly awaiting our next adrenaline hit. Jones doesn’t disappoint in the slightest this Fall; with a sheer autumn collection – which is cinched at the waist in the most sophisticated way.
For the collection, the British designer had full access to Karl Lagerfeld’s archives, and two Karl Lagerfeld collections. One, a Memphis-inspired range from 1986 and a chiffon-centric collection from 2000. The items serve as the starting points for the entire FW22 collection.
Bella Hadid opens the show up, wearing a chiffon slip dress with delicate ruffle detailing. The dusty pink mohair chubby, worn lazily off-shoulder, looks soft and sultry. The palette — a mix of peppermint, crimson, and rusty hues — comes across as slightly bolder than is the norm for the Roman house.
Check out the full presentation below:
Moschino
Jeremy Scott’s Moschino pre-fall 2022 men’s and women’s collections are a psychedelic fusion of Pop Art, Op Art, and psychedelic ’60s sci-fi dystopia.
Designer Jeremy Scott says,
“I wanted to take…military codes and things that are so staid and formal, but do them in candy bonbon colors and make them feel more playful and surreal,”
Scott tells WWD that “Blade Runner” is one of his major inspirations, noting costume designer Michael Kaplan’s mixing of genres and time periods.
He adds that, “Most of the collections I do are a mix — is it a bit 1970s, or 1940s — there is always a bit of signaling.… And none of us are living and wearing and experiencing all of 2021 at the same time. We have things for different times even if it’s five years ago.”
Check out the full presentation below:
Prada
The expectations were set high for the Prada FW22 runway – and the fashion giant didn’t disappoint us. Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons say that they are continuing the theme of stripping back previous collection looks for the FW2022 line.
Entitled “An Ideology of Prada”, the collection is already garnering praise from retailers. In particular, for its strength and creativity. “Brava Italia for tapping into their deep expertise in material innovation and craft,” says Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman.
“We saw exciting fabrications that never existed before, and remarkable textural innovations. We’re also happy to report that we’ve made some new and promising discoveries while in Milan.”
The runway featured models wearing matching jackets and skirts in charcoal and black shades. We also saw some new shapes in belted bomber jackets in floral prints and polo-neck jumpers sporting impressive prints.
In the front row, was Kim Kardashian, (watching her sister, Kendall Jenner walk) and Rita Ora.
Miuccia Prada says in the shownotes, “This collection is about the history of women, the history of people, not the history of fashion”.
Check out the full presentation below:
Blumarine
Blumarine is ever-establishing itself as the gold standard in early-aughts rebirth. Since its debut, fashion insiders, celebrities and TikTok fanatics have all come on board Creative Director Nicola Brognano’s nostalgic ride.
blumarine fall 2022 ready-to-wear pic.twitter.com/kY6bnJfydR
— ? (@SAlNTPRADA) February 24, 2022
Brognano is an outspoken advocate of the Y2K hot-girl aesthetic. Fall 2022 comes complete with colourful faux-fur, halternecks, slips with slits, midriffs, low-rise, low-slung-everything; finished off with a strappy stiletto.
Check out the full presentation below:
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