Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia is just around the corner so it’s time to have a look at what we should expect this year. Next to established Australian designers, MBFWA also showcases a carefully-curated selection of who they think will be the next big thing. By “they”, we mean none else than IMG’s head of fashion, Ellery’s general manager, Vogue Australia’s editor-in-chief, the merchandise director of David Jones, the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Australia, the director of Parlour X and MyTheresa.com’s buying director. Quite a comprehensive and intimidating panel, isn’t it?
Well a bunch of talented young Aussie designers made it through this jury and were selected for the St. George NextGen show 2016. No need to wait until their show in May; FIB already had a little chat with these promising creatives. Let us introduce you to Roni Cross, the name behind Kaliver.
Label: Kaliver
Name: Roni Cross
Age: 27
Education: Bachelor of Business at Bond University. Bachelor of Design, Majoring in Fashion at the Whitehouse Institute of Design Australia.
Favourite topic in high school: IT, 2 Unit Religion or Visual Arts
Siblings: 3 half-sisters and 1 half-brother
Favourite food: Strawberries
Favourite bar: In Sydney: The Paddington, especially the Whiskey Room upstairs. In
Melbourne: Carlton Club or Mdm Brussles
Favourite TV show: Friday Night Lights
Favourite song/singer/music: I am a big fan of music. I have too many faves to narrow it down to one. But the best live performances I have seen in a long time, are: Phantogram, Alpine, and The Red Hot Chilli Peppers (The Monday night, Sydney performance that wasn’t filmed)
The hottest guy: David Beckham (of course)
Most embarrassing moment: (I can’t run) I was playing mixed touch football at Bond University back in 2007, and I was chasing after a guy with the ball, (It was muddy from the rain that day, but that wasn’t the issue) my legs got tangled, and I fell flat on my face. Woops!
Worst outfit you had ever worn when you were younger: Snap pants… Although, I wouldn’t mind a pair to wear right now! They are the ultimate lazy-man pants. I do recall wearing a brimmed knitted headband with them, I thought I was pretty awesome, and I still do.
What does your label’s name mean?
It doesn’t actually have a meaning. The way it came about was when I was travelling through North America, I was deep in conversation with a friend, when I miss-pronounced the word ‘caliper’, giving birth to the word; Kaliver. I knew then and there that this was it; I had found the name for my label!
What do you think makes you special as a designer? Why do you think you got nominated as one of Australia’s next gen’ fashion designers?
I believe that the judges were looking for diversity on the judging day, and my collection was definitely different to everyone else who was showing that day. I guess that they were trying to curate an array of designers that would best represent Australia’s emerging fashion industry.
You say your brand enables every woman to express her individual femininity, sexuality and beauty. How do you think your designs can empower women?
The silhouettes I design can empower them. I like classic cuts, high necks, none of my clothes will ever play on a women’s sexuality to empower them. Women can be themselves in my clothes and feel empowered without having to show too much of their body if they don’t wish. Women shouldn’t have to rely on their sex appeal to feel empowered, being a woman is power in itself.
Do you think women tend to show more flesh to feel more powerful?
I don’t believe that women need to show more flash to feel more powerful. I believe that every single person in this lifetime should have the right to wear whatever they want. You should feel as comfortable as possible in the clothes you are travelling though life in.
As your label’s identity is all about women and femininity, do you think you would ever feel like designing clothes for men in the future?
I do. I actually already have the men’s collection waiting in the sidelines. I am just too busy with the women’s collection at the moment to give it the focus it deserves. As soon as I have more time, I will launch my debut men’s collection. It has been designed to be a relaxed, sophisticated collection for young businessmen who have a creative sense of style. So it will be classic with a special touch: tailored jackets, trousers and shirts made in unexpected materials for instance.
What do you think of unisex fashion?
I am all for it. I am always wearing my boyfriend’s clothes, and vice versa. My Autumn/Winter collection had a few unisex pieces, which have been received well by men and women. I have also seen some of my looks used in previous male-only photo shoots. Fashion is all about androgyny at the moment, and I think it’s great. Gender doesn’t matter that much anymore.
You define your brand as ethical. What do you think of slow fashion and how sustainable is Kaliver?
I have all of my manufacturers, that are offshore, audited, and I personally have visited all of my factories nationally and internationally. My clothes are made both in Australia and Asia – China and India. I have met all of my sewers and made sure they are above the age of 18, have great machines to work with, and are entitled to really good work conditions and pay.
As far as slow fashion is concerned, sustainability does play a role in my creative process. I try to use a colour palette that is easy to mix into the Kaliver lady’s wardrobe, so that my clients can keep my pieces longer and wear them with other items they already own. My work is not seasonable; I create timeless pieces that a woman can keep for years in her wardrobe. Indeed, the price is a little higher, but at least you know Kaliver clothes were made in good work conditions, with high-quality materials and that they’re designed to last long.
As far as slow fashion is concerned, sustainability does play a role in my creative process. I try to use colours that are easy to mix so that my clients can keep my pieces longer and wear them with other items. My work is not seasonable; I create timeless pieces that a woman can keep for years in her wardrobe. Indeed, the price is a little higher, but at least you know Kaliver clothes were made in good work conditions, with high-quality materials and that they’re designed to last long.
Who is your favourite Australian and international designer?
Bassike is my favourite Australian brand; I wear it every day. I like Bassike because they design their clothes with the inside of the garment in mind.
On the international scene, I love Isabel Marant for her ready-to-wear and Chloé for their accessories.
When I travelled to China, I visited all of the designers’ boutiques, and the biggest stand-out for me was Issey Miyake, currently he has a heavy focus on avant-garde, when everyone else’s designs are very relaxed at the moment.
I also notice that fashion is all about effortless and it’s not as extravagant as it used to be. Do you think it’s a new trend?
I believe that the design trend is due to the revival of the 70s. As you know the 70s ‘it girls’ were all very natural, and I believe designers are pulling design lines, colours and feels from the 70’s and the 90’s at the moment.
What has been your career highlight so far?
I think the Next Gen’ show coming up is my biggest highlight so far and it will really sink in once I am backstage at MBFWA.
Where do you find inspiration? Tell us more about your creative process.
Everywhere. It just happens in many different ways and I don’t have a clear-set methodology. Once, I had a vision of a jacket, so I created it and it became the starting point of my whole collection. The collection I’m showing at MBFWA this year was inspired by the fine strands of fairy floss.
Australian designer Josh Goot just moved to New York to find more challenging opportunities. Would you like to move overseas, or do you prefer the Australian fashion scene?
I have lived in Melbourne and Queensland before and Sydney is my favourite place to live in Australia. I would love to conquer Australia before I move off shore. I will always base Kaliver out of Australia, It’s where I belong.
Can you tell us a little bit about the collection you are presenting at the fashion week?
Powerpuff Girls meet a unicorn?!
It is definatly crazier than usual. I am still focusing on my structured design lines, but I am adding the colour of the rainbow. I usually tend to follow the main trends of the season, and then I put my own twist onto it. My Resort 17 Collection is influenced by skittles, rainbows, unicorns, Dolce & Gabanna and fairy floss.
At the age of 27 you are already showcasing your work at the fashion week. Did you expect to go that far, that quickly? What are your next goals?
Honestly, I thought it would be a few more years before I would get to where I am. I am thankful for my parents allowing me to fulfil my dreams as a designer, and I am blessed that the judging panel at IMG and MBFWA have given me this amazing opportunity.
My ultimate dream is to have my own fashion house. I know I will have made it when my flagship store will be draped in marble. I know it sounds a bit crazy, but I even have the design details mapped out, it will be magnificent.