After more than a decade away, the Yves Saint Laurent is back to reaffirm its spot in haute couture.
The iconic French house announced its return to couture with the unveiling of its new exclusive line for men and women. This is the brand’s first collection since the late designer’s final show in 2002. Hedi Slimane, the new creative director since 2012, has also opened the brand’s newest Couture House. Located in Hôtel de Sénecterre, the 17th century mansion has been restored by Slimane during his three years at the creative helm of the house. While the line has been rebranded as Saint Laurent Paris, the Yves Saint Laurent name and iconic YSL logo will be retained for couture.
The house will have different areas: L’Atelier Flou for dressmaking; the Couture Salon for clients and fitting; and L’Atelier Tailleur for tailoring. The house’s beautiful interiors — displaying art and furniture from the private collections of Slimane and the house — are featured in a new campaign, Rue de L’Université. The fashion house explained that the ateliers are only a section of Slimane’s Saint Laurent project. The company released a statement last week regarding the label ‘Yves Saint Laurent’,
“Hedi determines which of these pieces will carry the atelier’s hand-sewn couture label ‘Yves Saint Laurent’. These couture pieces may be women or men, a tuxedo or an evening dress, daywear or eveningwear. The ‘Yves Saint Laurent’ private atelier label is made of ivory silk satin and is numbered by piece. The atelier keeps a strict record of all the couture pieces in a gold monogram book.”
The new collection will be spotlighted in black and white campaign ads in magazines this month. These photographs will showcase pieces that give a nod towards the fashion house’s eponymous founder. Think androgynous silhouettes and tuxedos featuring YSL’s famous square-shouldered frame. However, there’s also a decidedly Slimane feel to the ready-to-wear pieces — the photographer captures a feeling of freedom and playfulness.
So far the fashion house is simply producing custom pieces for celebrities and exclusive clients, without an official public outlet. It isn’t confirmed if the house will return to haute couture fashion shows.