These days if anything significant happens in fashion it is soon all over Instagram. Such is the platform’s fashion ubiquity that if it’s not on Instagram it really didn’t happen.
2018 was a pretty massive year for fashion. Between endless games of musical chairs, as the likes of Kim, Virgil, Raf and Riccardo swapped and switched from house to house, there was a series of huge debuts, provocative moments of protest both on the runway and off, and more than a few viral moments that #broketheinternet (or at least came close to doing so). We saw Houses tumble (Dolce & Gabbana in China) and the rise of a new social activism in fashion #fashionwoke.
We witnessed designers explore what the human race will look like 1000 years in the future, saw the dawn of a new age, as AI influencers and CGI models rose up and demanded to be noticed, and watched as the industry seemingly finally woke up to issues surrounding sustainability.
With all that in mind, we’re here to remind you of some of the biggest moments of the last year. Who knows what 2019’s going to bring…
Raf Simons went in the revolving door at Calvin Klein, then as fast as he went in, he was flung out
View this post on Instagram
Raf Simons’ high-concept overhaul of CK Jeans was a “fashion miss.” And investments in his runway collection, dubbed 205W39NYC, will be cut as marketing budgets shift to influencers and more approachable messaging, reports @kathryn.hopkins. Diving deeper into his “disappointment” with the performance of Calvin Klein, chairman and chief executive officer Emanuel Chirico told investors on a conference call Friday morning that he’s taking swift action to correct the brand direction, which the Belgian designer skewed too fashion forward and too expensive for its core consumer. “For holiday 2018 we are shifting more of our media spend from halo marketing to more commercial digital and social media advertising,” said Chirico. “We have upped the frequency of our posts on social platforms like Instagram and we are increasingly using micro influencers and hosting local activation to drive meaningful engagement particularly with Millennials and Gen Z.” The changes to the brand’s marketing comes after WWD reported this week that sources indicate Calvin Klein might be making a change in its photographers, hiring Glen Luchford to photograph the spring campaign, rather than Willy Vanderperre, who has worked closely with Simons since he took over the helm as chief creative officer in 2016. More on WWD.com #wwdnews #calvinklein
Fashion is known for the fact that skirts go up, and then skirts go down, but when sales goes down a lot, it’s usually the designer who gets flung out. And it appears this is what happened to Raf Simons. In the creative lead role for what seemed the shortest of times, he came, he left and now he’s looking for something new. You want to hope that these fashion contracts have a fat redundancy clause.
Virgil staged his first Louis Vuitton men’s show
After Kim Jones announced he would be leaving Louis Vuitton menswear after seven years, it was Virgil Abloh who stepped up to the take the reins at the Parisian house. For his debut in June, Abloh took over the Jardin de Palais Royal, creating a rainbow carpet runway that seemed to stretch on for miles. Presenting the collection to the likes of Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Takashi Murakami, Bella Hadid, Rihanna, and Naomi Campbell – not to mention a thousand students from fashion schools around the world. Safe to say, it was a moment. Our fave part though, has to be that hug after the show finished between long-time friends Virgil and Kanye. So wholesome!
We knew it was coming. We knew it was going to be major. After pulling out last year, Beyoncé finally came to snatch Coachella’s wig. Performing with a full band and featuring appearances from Solange, it’s no wonder Twitter rushed to rename the event Beychella. The cherry on top though, was the custom Balmain wardrobe created by Olivier Rousteing worn by every single person on stage. It was a production.
Where’s your head at? (Gucci)
Right at the beginning of the year, Alessandro Michele presented his AW18 collection for Gucci. The invite was a ticking time bomb, the set was staged like an operating theatre, and we were all pretty confused. It all made sense once the models began to stride out, with two of them ditching handbags for a more outlandish accessory – their own severed heads. Others carried model snakes, and even a baby dragon, all courtesy of special effects company Makinarium. Want your own Gucci head for Christmas? You’ll need to have a spare €10k lying around…
Savage X Fenty slam-dunked NYFW
After taking over the whole fucking world with Fenty Beauty, Rihanna announced she would next be coming for the lingerie industry – launching Savage x Fenty. Dropping a campaign featuring the likes of Jazzelle (AKA @uglyworldwide), Slick Woods, and plus-size Instagram model Audrey Ritchie. Woods returned for the label’s NYFW debut, this time turning up heavily pregnant wearing only a body harness and nipple pasties. After strutting out onto the runway, Woods was rushed to hospital and later gave birth to her son Saphir. Now, that’s how you do diversity *ahem* Victoria’s Secret.
Celine by Hedi Slimane debuted
View this post on Instagram
HEDI SLIMANE AT CELINE LVMH is proud to announce Hedi Slimane’s return to the Group, as Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline with effect from February this year. He will direct all Céline collections, extending to men’s fashion, couture and fragrances. © Y. R _ #HediSlimane #Celine #LVMH
Following the sad departure of Phoebe Philo at the end of last year, it was announced that Hedi Slimane would be taking over the reins at Celine. Surprising at first, but the designer came in strong – first removing the accent from the label’s name and deleting all previous posts from its Instagram account. As the SS19 season of shows started, monochrome posters shot by
Slimane cropped up in New York, London, and Paris teasing what was to come. The show itself was an about-turn from the Celine we were used to, with Slimane sending out glittering party dresses and sharp suiting that he’s known for. And there were more changes, with the debut of menswear at the house. After the debut co-ed collection, the house is gearing up to present its first standalone menswear show in January. Watch this space.
Riccardo’s big Burberry debut
View this post on Instagram
‘I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new Chief Creative Officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage ad global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand” @burberry ARTWORK @katerinajebb #burberry
After presenting a new, Peter Saville-designed logo and monogram in the spring, Riccardo Tisci’s first outing at Burberry rolled around in September and boy, was it a big one. Featuring approx. a,983 looks worn by the likes of Stella Tennant, Kendall Jenner, Lily Donaldson, and Anok Yai, Tisci’s debut collection covered prim and proper, out-and-out edgy, and high-fashion streetwear, as guests including his mum (sitting front row in the best seat of the house, obvs) looked on. Since then, the Italian designer has really put his stamp on the house: building a huge robot in the middle of the Regent Street store, and collaborating with Vivienne Westwood on a offering that clashed silhouettes from the grand dame of fashion’s archive with the classic Burberry check. Name a more iconic duo etc.
All hail Pope RiRi
This year’s Met exhibition theme was Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination – featuring crossover moments from fashion and religion. LBR though, we were all more interested in seeing what lewks were turned at the Met Ball. Lana Del Rey, Alessandro Michele, and Jared Leto turned up as the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit, while SZA, Cardi B, and Solange all looked (for lack of a better word) heavenly in Versace, Moschino, and Gareth Pugh respectively. Unsurprisingly, it was Rihanna who won the night – turning up as the actual Pope, albeit a Maison Margiela-wearing one. Papal chic.
Colin Kaepernick did it
Having caused Donald Trump’s blood pressure to rise exponentially (although sadly not quite high enough) by refusing to stand during the national anthem – in protest of the violence enacted on people of colour in America – before an NFL game, Colin Kaepernick was soon signed up by Nike to star in its 30th anniversary Just Do It campaign. Presented in black and white and bearing the statement “Believe in something, even if it means sacrificing everything”, the image saw racists across America burning Nike sneakers left, right, and centre as #BoycottNike spread across social media – proof, in the unlikely circumstances you need any, that the sportswear behemoth was doing something right.
The Queen did it (fashion week)
View this post on Instagram
See highlights from the final day of #LFW including @shrimps, @isa_arfen and Her Majesty The Queen's visit to the @britishfashioncouncil Designer Showrooms and Show Space. The Queen sat front row alongside Anna Wintour and BFC CEO @97crush at BFC NEWGEN recipient @richardquinn1's catwalk show before presenting for the first time, The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to Richard Quinn @theroyalfamily
There was chaos outside the Dazed office as a number of staff saw the Queen pull up outside during London Fashion Week. No, she wasn’t pencilled in for a tête-q-tête with Jefferson Hack – she was actually heading to see Richard Quinn’s AW18 show, where she took a place on the front row next to Anna Wintour. Her Majesty was there to present the designer with the first ever Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Will she be back next season? Watch this space.
What was your favourite fashion moment from 2018? Let us know down below.