Simon Porte Jacquemus’ tenth anniversary runway has fast become the most memorable and instagrammable fashion moment of 2019.
At only 29 years of age, the designer celebrated his label’s tenth birthday with a diverse cast of models, a 500-meter fuchsia catwalk, and for the first time, a collection of both mens and womenswear. Abetted by a plush lavender field in Valensole, Jacquemus’ exhibited the saturated colour palette and oversized aesthetic of his Spring/ Summer 2020 collection, titled Le Coup de Soleil.
Having grown up an hour from the site, Jacquemus is well aware of the fields’ allure to tourists and instagrammers alike. With his bold vision and marketing genius, the designer enlists the lush, lavender meadow in full bloom as the host of his tenth anniversary celebration.
In an interview with Vogue just 24 hours before the show, Jacquemus discussed the inspiration behind his designs, citing Hockey, and Christo and Jeanne-Claude as key muses for the recent collection. In reference to Hockney, the picturesque landscape and milelong pink runway draw close resemblance to The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate, East Yorkshire in 2011.
“Yesterday I was looking at the mood board, it’s like a tequila sunrise,” he describes amusingly. The collection mirrors his playful tone and youthful essence, most notably seen in his appreciation for enticing patterns and prints. While his previous range includes only three prints, Le Coup de Soleil incorporates 35.
Fine tops, oversized blazers, interesting prints and tailor-made basics in pastel hues are most salient through the collection. It also includes his signature sandals, a striking metallic pant, a gradient-dyed knit and an array of tiny, memeable bags.
Though the collection reveals his maturity as a designer, Jacquemus holds on to his youthful spirit. He eloquently summarises his latest offering, “I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in summer.”
Photo credit: Vogue Runway
At just 29 years of age, with a successful, decade-long label under his belt, Jacquemus uses his platform to celebrate diversity and inclusivity. Through his inclusion of innumerable models of colour, the young designer sets the benchmark and challenges the historically exclusive traditions of the fashion industry. Jacquemus’ show is a bold push for diversity in fashion to transition from a trend to the standard.
Recruiting a group of students local to the Provence region to reinterpret his show, Jacquemus’ emphasises the need for collaborative work with young people. In perhaps the most important event from Paris’ fashion week for young creatives, these four local students produced breathtaking photographs and abstract interpretations of the momentous show. The works developed by the young creatives were made completely free of input and disruption from Jacquemus.
Unlike many established designers, Jacquemus does not pay anyone to wear his designs. Even many of the world’s most prominent figures are paying customers. In fact, some of this esteemed clientele include the Princess of Monaco, Rihanna and Beyoncé.
Albeit difficult to pronounce for many, Jacquemus is quickly becoming a household name.
See the full show in all its glory below:
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