BALENCIAGA DEBUTS SPRING 23: HIGH FASHION MEETS WALL STREET

Credit: Demna Instagram

Last Sunday a unique ensemble gathered before the New York Stock Exchange. The New York Times writes, “There was screaming. There was jostling. There were gathered police officers and barricades.” However, the immaculately dressed assembled audience wasn’t there to protest the current state of the world market. But rather, to attend the Balenciaga spring 2023 show.

Not Your Average Consumer?

Demna’s New York debut is the first show held on the trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange. ā€œI am not interested in anything average, including the average consumer,ā€ Gvasalia told GQĀ and true to his word, his timing could not have been better.

Credit: Balenciaga Instagram

Following several straight weeks of a tumbling Dow, his latest performance piece echoes the symbolic beating heart of American wealth: creation and destruction. Reflective of an otherworldly dream, the show features anonymous models. They are dressed in full latex suits with only their ponytails, braids and thick fake eyelashes visible through slits. Like this, they glide, wraith-like, around Wall Streetā€™s money pit, illuminated by stock symbols and scrawling news announcements.

ā€œWe have to trigger emotion with these shows.”

Denma reports to WWD.Ā “For two years, weā€™ve been sitting at home trying to come up with digital things and video games and films. I miss that moment of yea, itā€™s terrifying. We live in a terrifying world and fashion is a reflection of that and if it triggers that fear or terror, Iā€™ve succeeded.ā€

Celebrity Lineup

Opening with the ringing of the stock exchange bell, the front row features an intimidating line-up of celebrities. These include Kanye West, Megan Thee Stallion, Offset, Frank Ocean, Marc Jacobs, Pharrell Williams, A$AP, Nast, Candice Swanepoel, Chloƫ Sevigny and of course, fashion great, Anna Wintour.

Credit: Christine Quinn Instagram

The show, divided into three sections, started with theĀ  new ā€œGarde-Robe,ā€ or wardrobe, of what Demna described as ā€œupscale classic garments.ā€

The office wear is, according to a news release from Balenciaga, actually the beginning of a new line called Garde-Robe involving ā€œwardrobe staplesā€ that will be a sort of perennial offering between ready-to-wear and couture. The first set was an offering to classic tailoring, inspired by the relaunch of the houseā€™s couture collection the previous year.

Credit: Balenciaga Instagram

ā€œI realized we were missing this segment of the classic wardrobe,ā€ Denma tellsĀ Vogue. He unveils a runway featuring ā€œWorking Girlā€ blouses accompanied by crocodile-print leather skirts. PlissĆ© polka-dot dresses and sac-backed trench coats were belted around the hipsĀ and the baggy black suit that broke the internet when Justin Bieber wore it to the 2022 Grammys was featured.

A Collection for Every Class

Beyond the unsettling gimp masks, Balenciaga is emerging as a heavyweight in the tailoring department.Ā The runway includes a decadent 1980s-throwback double-breasted black blazer in a triangle silhouette over a skirt; rigorously tailored power suits, and a long lean camel coat. From oversize, drape-y trenches, collarless robe coats and beautiful wrap coats, the classic collection suits all working classes from the high-end jet-setter, to the 9-5 commuter.

Credit: Balenciaga Instagram
Credit: Balenciaga Instagram
The second stage of the collection was dedicated to evening wear including stripped-down, body-conscious gowns, and swishy satin separates (including a great pair of evening pyjamas and satin trench complete with train). A silk trench dress with Demnaā€™s signature linebacker silhouette and a black sequinned gown glittering from top of head to fingertips were glamorous even while paired with padded pumps.
Credit: Balenciaga Instagram
Credit: Balenciaga Instagram
Credit: Instagram

Big Fashion Moments

The third and final part of the record-breaking runway, showcases Demnaā€™s athleisure collection. This allowed the designer the chance to debut tracksuits as business attire. In a collaboration with Adidas that put Balenciaga trefoil logos and stripes on T-shirts, robe coats, destroyed denim, duffels and hourglass bags, the designs hewed towards an oversize, baggy workwearĀ aesthetic conditioned to represent the everyman.

The collection, featuring tracksuits, boxerā€™s robes, and track dresses, all bearing Adidas’ iconic stripes, continuing to drive home Balenciaga’s growing prominence in the sportswear category.

Credit: Vogue

ā€œI always wanted to use three stripes and the logo, to be very honest with you.”Ā Demna told GQ about his Balenciaga collaboration with Adidas. “As a seven year old kid, I had an Adidas tracksuit, and that was my biggest fashion moment when I was a child.ā€

Credit: Instagram
Credit: Instagram

“Everybody jumps on the bus or trend wagon, and starts looking the same,” the designer tells WWD.

In his latest runway show, 2023 Resort Collection for Balenciaga, Denma has continued on his predefined quest to subvert fashion by blurring the false boundary between working-class and luxury.

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