1017 ALYX 9SM unveils its collection for Spring Summer 2023. Creative Director Matthew M. Williams puts forward innovative silhouettes and shapes in his “MOTION” collection.

Credit: Vogue

The entire 1017 ALYX 9SM 23 collection contemplates the expression of subversive culture thru high-quality textiles. The captivating runway looks are a collaborative effort with stylist Lotta Volkova. The season borrows from sportswear motifs in gender-neutral silhouettes. Introducing new pieces, it debuts footwear for the highly anticipated collaboration with Nike. Williams offers a co-ed rife with decoded streetwear, informed by combinations of high fashion and leatherwear.

The Show Opens

The show opens with a series of all-white and all-black ensembles. We see head wraps, loose silhouette vests and straight-leg trousers. From the get-go, a monochromatic pattern echoing previous collections is evident.

Neutral shades intersect via a neon palette of bubble-gum pinks and fluorescent yellows, very characteristic of Williams. These infusions of colour come by way of accessories, most notably in the Alba and Lila bag debut. These pieces come in “Plain”, “Fluo”, and “Shiny” leather iterations. A nice detail is the Alyx Micro Buckle clasp – a quintessential Alyx code. Additionally, the Lila bag – a more minimalist, oragami structure, adapts “its shape as the wearer interacts with the object.”

Bursts of colour are come through the footwear, with their heels featuring grommet belt straps that wrap around the ankle. Alongside the heels, the runway sees the Nike x MMW 005 mule and the new ARIA sneaker debut. The pair arrive in black and light grey hues. The latest addition to William’s Nike Zoom series is available for purchase later this year.

Bold, loud sunglasses have the model’s bangs teetering over the top – a subtle yet appreciated detail. Models, at times, are not wearing the pieces properly. Hoodies are slung around the neck and shoulder, hanging off the body.

The World of Chito

Credit: @chito.international

Guests gather around an abandoned Franco Scarioni swimming pool. It’s a fitting venue, as “there’s a lot of skin in the dresses” says Williams after the show. With much of the fabrication in bathing suit technical stretch cooling fabrics, the location and pieces thus cater to a summertime atmosphere

It seems the SS23 “MOTION” collection echoes Williams work at Givenchy. This is founded particularly in the darker hues of the collection.

Graffiti artist, Chito sprays the walls with idiosyncratic characters and distinguishable tags. These include Chito’s surreal cartoon dog and sad clown dominating the space. For anyone familiar with Williams and Givenchy, or those in the graffiti subculture, one may recognise these characters from a collaboration with Givenchy. Most obvious in its Spring 2022 pre-collection.

Instead of clothes, this time the walls display Chito’s iconic motifs and characters, turning the set into a space ideal for NYC skaters. Williams often takes inspiration from punk subculture. Therefore, having graffiti line the walls of the set just makes sense.

It seems the two’s chemistry is unmatched, with Williams consistently engaging in a playful dialogue with the graphic artist. Moreover, their collaborations in the past prove to push Alyx into bold new territory.

Versatility, Diversity, Harmony

Credit: Vogue

As the collection furthers, layering becomes more apparent as the monochromatic scheme fades out. Colours and materials intertwine, alongside striking juxtapositions of masculine and feminine silhouettes.

Next, light-wash denim pants and jackets make their way into the mix. Tops are coupled with now-trending low-rise cargo pants. Silhouettes become less boxy and more abstract. A new peace sign logo appears in both black and white colourways; literally and figuratively harmonising the undercurrent of streetwear punctuating the brand.

The collection develops technical structures and weaves weightless Rick Owens-esque mesh-knits into one. A monochrome fluorescent faux feather coat and skirt finishes off the collection – exploring the diversity and versatility of the brand.

Moreover, the collection sees the willingness of the high-end brand to be part of the rising streetwear culture consistently throughout the collection.

With models re-emerging for the final walkthrough, they march around the pool to an unrealeased track ‘Wat It Do’ by Yeat which is most definitely a nod to the rising ‘new underground’ rap scene permeating our online space.

Check out the full presentation below:

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